ICELAND

Snæland

Well, since I really needed Holidays, I decided to take a week off and go on a trip. I didn't think much about where to go and we actually planned a road trip through Portugal and Spain. But there were a lot of problems while planning, so I decided to go somewhere solo.

Some me time ^.^

I researched possible and interesting places to travel as a single woman. One that pooped up was ICELAND. I heard a lot about this country and I have seen amazing pictures. It was middle of October and due to my research, also the beginning of winter time and chances were high to see the aurora. No further thinking, I booked a flight with EASYJET, for 80 bucks there and back, which is so incredibly less. I had 8 days, so I started to plan and decided to RENT A CAR. When it comes down to sleeping, I'm totally uncomplicated and in order to save time and money, I planned to sleep in the car.

After experiencing some uncomfortable things, I just had to bring distance between me and the stuff keeping me reminding of it. So, I decided to make one of those self-finding trips, for which one week was actually too short, but it helped me a lot to sort out my troublesome thoughts.

It’s me time.

I packed all the necessary things and of course my camera. Photography calms me and empties my head, to focus on capturing something beautiful in nature and my environment has a healing effect on me, letting me see the things around me and how little I and my problems are. I had to leave when it was still dark in the morning and so I arrived at the Airport, my earpods in, hoodie up and radiating a total introvert and fuck off feeling. It did work until I arrived in Keflavik, where the guy for my car rental picked me up. Well, he was one hell of a man. Just like those strong northern men from the fantasy romans I used to read in my teen years. It felt like a new problem was about to arise and I didn’t know if I would dislike it. We had a pleasant conversation and actually ended up exchanging numbers.

Afterwards, I jumped in the car in Keflavik and couldn't wait to make it out of the town into the nature and isolation I longed for so desperately. So, I drove south towards Selfoss and once I was out of the town, I suddenly found myself all alone on the road. That was unexpected. There was no car in sight, not in front, not behind or on the other side. I started to enjoy myself, listened to some good music and slowly my loud thoughts began to quiet down.

The night came fast, because it was the beginning of winter time and the days were short. The temperature dropped rapidly and the road became icy. Luckily, I was used to this kind of condition, but a rare van in front of me totally missed the turn and drifted helplessly over the street. No one beside the two of us was around, so nothing had happened and he turned and tried to catch the curve slower, this time successfully.

SKYR

Soon I arrived in SELFOSS and once I crossed the bridge I saw a Subway and a Dominos Pizza right next to it. I filled my tank on the gas station, bought some snacks and of course, for the first time an Icelandic SKYR. I guess during my time there I almost only ate Skyr and tried all sorts of. IT IS DELICIOUS!

SLEEPING IN THE CAR IS ALLOWED

Then, I parked on a big parking lot with the street lights in sight, because the first night alone in the car, somewhat scared me. Yes, I'm a scary cat, especially in the dark! The Suzuki Jimny I rented, became my home for this week. When I fold back the passenger seat, it perfectly connected with the back seat. Because of my hobbit-sized body, I could lay fully stretched out in the car. This is how I spend the nights in my sleeping bag.

DRIVING ON THE RING ROAD

I slept well and started the day early, because I felt like my time is already running out. Once I left Selfoss there was this endless empty street in front of me. No sign of human beings, just nature and the slowly rising sun in the east. When the sun started to rise I had to pull over immediately. I saw about 7 sunrises and sets on my whole tour and one was more epic than the other. When I watched the slowly rising sun, the feeling of time slipped out of my mind and I just started to enjoy and appreciate the moment. I don't know how this can be, it was the same sun everyday rises, sometimes hidden behind clouds but still, it was the very same sun. I cannot tell what it was, but the feeling was all different. Maybe because I did not have the thought of being at work in an hour or stuff I had to do before the next day, no obligations, no expectations towards me being a fully functional social person. Maybe it was because of the silence around me and there was this almost magic light coming from the fire planet.

HIGHLANDS, LANDMANNALAUGAR

On this lonely road, my first stop in the nowhere, I took about a hundred pictures. I continued my journey and drove for almost two hours without seeing another soul. Then I arrived at GJAIN, I walked around a little and enjoyed the magical scenery. It was so silent, no voices or crying birds, just the calm water could be heard. Since I rented a 4x4 I was determined to make it to the HIGHLANDS, so I continued my journey towards LANDMANNALAUGAR. Right before I went up, up, up to the top, I stopped at the LAKE BLAHYLUR. That was a good decision because the road up towards on the snow was humpy and bumpy all the way. My little Jimny with me inside was shaken through and I almost feared that he would fall apart. Luckily, we made it to the top, where the real fun just started. The road before me had huge and deep holes all over it. There was already a lot of snow and some of the holes were covered with a thin icy layer, so you couldn't really tell how deep they were.

NOTHING AND MORE NOTHING...

At this point, I probably have to say how much I enjoy driving. Maybe this is because of my brothers or the fact that I used to drive my father’s jeep during my summer job. Anyway, this ride was one of the funniest ones. With a big smile, just like a little kid that received a huge candy lollipop, I drove my car between the stones, holes and curves. I couldn't else but laugh about myself. I was so focused on the road and trying to avoid all of the deep holes just taking the ones with the right amount of water to make a nice, splashy fountain, that I totally forgot to look around.

When I realized it, I pulled the car over but I there was nothing stunning to see. It was just a huge wide nothing covered in snow. The sun was still up and some clouds started to sneak in slowly. I really didn't want to be in the Highlands in the nowhere, when the weather changes and there was probably a storm coming up. For the people that have a car with Wifi I highly recommend to check the weather chart regularly, because the weather changes often and fast in Iceland. Unfortunately, I wanted to stay without Internet Connection so I decided to go with my gut. I would go on for another half an hour and then look for the fastest way down or a rest area. The weather kept up and I found some really nice spots. For example, a half-frozen lake, a part of the street that was completely covered in water by a river only the biggest jeeps where allowed to cross and some other beautiful sights. The weather got darker and I decided to return.

FIRST WATERFALL; SKOGAFOSS

On my way back, two giant Jeeps drove towards me. I looked somewhat pitiful with my modest Jimny and the people inside the monster jeeps just smirked down on me. One of the wheels was almost the size of my car! Those things were giant! Later I found out that you could book tours with that kind of jeeps. Trying not to be hurt in my pride, my Jimny and I chugged along our way. The street conditions became worse as higher as I went and I almost didn't make it up a really steep hillside. On the foot of the icy hill stood an empty truck, the driver had probably given up trying to make it upwards. There were traces of the wheels all over the street. I didn't make it in the first try and had to roll my car backwards down the curvy steel road, which was everything else than pleasant. Fortunately, I just had forgotten to put my AWD on again after the last stop and so I made it slowly, slowly upwards the hill. I reached the last curve right in the moment, when a huge truck came around the corner on the top of the hill. When I say truck, I mean one of those food or other stuff delivering trucks, not a jeep, a truck including a trailer! The friendly driver asked with a strong Icelandic accents if I'm alright. After a short conversation he also said the weather is changing and I better should go on my way to make it back to the Ring Road in time. Amazed, I watched him driving this huge vehicle down the icy road. If I had worn a hat I would have raised it to him.

I made it down safely and didn’t meet another soul back on my way to the Ring Road. Only when I arrived at SKOGAFOSSS I met some people again. It is one of the few spots that can be visited by car or bus from Reykjavik, so many tourists were there. But the people around the waterfall didn’t really belittled the size of it, no, it actually was perfect to see the small persons standing in front of this giant to take selfies. I surely was stunned by its size.

FAMOUS MYSTERIOUS PLANE WRECK

Next stop was the mythic PLANE WRECK, which lies on the other side of the street. It rained slightly and it was foggy, so I could take some great pictures with a lost vibe.

the-abandoned-dc-plane-on-solheimasandur

BLACK BEACH

The rain became stronger and stronger and when I arrived at the BLACK BEACH, MYRDALUR, it stormed heavily. When I opened my door to exit, I knew exactly why the man from the car rental had told me to hold on to the doors, when opening them. It almost teared the door out of my hands. Thickly wrapped in my jacket I walked to the beach and the people coming towards me, where almost blown away, because they couldn’t step forward. Despite the bad weather, the mood was pretty good, we had so much fun, laughing at each other, while trying to pass one another in slow motion. When I arrived at the beach, the giant cave with the rectangular shaped stones, protected us from the heavy winds. I took my time to discover the REYNISDRANGAR, a pure wonder of the nature.

ICELAND'S CANYON

When I made my way back to the car the storm grew even wilder and nobody dared to leave their cars. Inside my own vehicle I heard the wind howling and could feel the car shaking. To dry my soaking wet rain jacket, I put it over the rest of my seat. It was around 3 PM, the storm had put some life in me, so I was excited and widely awake. I guess this was one of the moments where I could feel the pure life. It is one of those crazy things you do when you are young. It reminded me how we would run through the farmers field, trying to catch the sprinkler, or how we would climb over the fence of the closed public swimming pool to take a swim on a stormy day. All of those memories came up in my head and made my heart aching and yearning.

Where did those careless times go, when nothing matters but the next adventure?

Night had fallen and I spent the night at a gas station. Again, I woke up early and so arrived at the famous Canyon of Iceland all by myself. The weather was better, but still some rain drops fell. Since I was planning the trip, Fjaðrárgljúfur was high on my list and I was not disappointed. I cannot describe in words what my eyes saw, it was just beautiful. I couldn’t help but ask myself how the world would look like if humans wouldn’t have pressed their influence on it. That is also why I can only recommend everyone to visit Iceland. To see this pure, beautiful nature, is something you shouldn’t miss out, especially not, when you grew up in a big city.

KIRKJUGOLF

Later, I tried to find the special heart shaped stone at KIRKJUGOLF, got bored and failed. If anyone found it, please tag me in your photo! @toughcookie.yo

GIANT, STUNNING GLACIERS

I stumbled across FOSS A SIDU, stopped for starring at DVERGHAMRAR, LOMAGNUPUR and hiked to SVARTIFOSS. And then, finally reached the gigantic glacier SVINAFELLSJOKULL. The road there was pretty bad, huge holes in the road, some cars had to pull over and a RV was stuck. I drove slowly, because I was afraid of gravel damage and because of all the small circuits, it took me half an eternity to get there. Next time I would probably just walk. When I arrived, I saw that the pictures on the internet didn’t justify the glaciers esteem at all. It’s huge! I couldn’t be close enough, so I climbed down on slivery stones and almost got myself killed just to get a better view around the edge.

DIAMOND BEACH

Afterwards I headed for the DIAMOND BEACH, which is magical and surreal. Right on the other side is the glacier Jökulsárlón, you can get close to the water and hear the cracking of the ice. Huge, awesome bluish ice blocks swimming in the water towards the ocean made an amazing picture. From there you could also take tours into the ice caves, which leads you in another world. Kinda reminded me of the movie Ice Age.

NICE TOWNS TO SPEND A DAY

Then I drove to HÖFN, a little, cute town with a port. I got a fill up and and strolled around the Netto supermarket.

I continued my journey and stopped to take pictures at KLIFATINDUR and STOKKSNES, other epic places and when the mountain is covered in snow it should look even more beautiful.

After a Stop at SVEINSSTEKKSFOSS I arrived in EGLISSTADIR, a small town in the east of Iceland. I took a bath in the swimming pool at the sports center and went to sleep.

DETTIFOSS IN THE NORTH

The next I felt somewhat lonely and turned on an audiobook to fill the silence in the car. I drove north and the landscape changed again. I was surrounded by mountains and drove higher up above the sea level. I turned right but unfortunately the road was closed, but there was a Café so I grabbed a drink and continued. After another half an hour I reached DETTIFOSS. I put on my jackets and followed the path, not seeing anything like a waterfall. After 15 minutes walking I heard water and then I saw it. Once again I was stunned by its size. It was huge, rushing over grey stones and falling hundreds of meters down. I followed upwards the stream to see the cliffs better. It was one big waterfall and some smaller ones on the side, looking like they were filling a giant bath. The cliffs also showed this fascinating green moos, that makes it look like from another planet.

ROAD TO ASBYRGI

I drove towards north and finally reached another of my #MustSee spots, ÁSBYRGI. It like a huge horseshoe formed canyon and when you stand on the edge, a sea of green spread below you.

HOT GROUND IN MYVATN

I drove towards my next destination, when I spotted a lot of cars on a parking lot. I hadn’t marked this place on my map and pulled over curiously. In front of a sandy looking mountain were some holes in the ground spitting hot air and gas from another volcano KRAFLA. This volcano would also be responsible for my heated water later in the blue lagoon of MYVATN.

NO CROWDS IN THIS BLUE LAGOON

I decided to visit the BLUE LAGOON in MYVATN, because it is less crowded. The staff welcomes you brightly and tells you everything to know. Even though the water looks chemic, it contains only pure natural minerals. There is a main pool and another slightly cooler pool next to it. A lot of couples were around, but also families and in an outside pot a group enjoyed some beer while bathing. There is also kind of a Saunas in the Area.

MYVATN AND HUSAVIK

The next day I started by exploring Myvatn. There are a lot of thing to do like the STORAGJA CAVE with another hot spring inside or the lake itself is beautiful too. I stumbled across another cave, GRJOTAGJA and drove to HUSAVIK. There is a whale museum, an exploration museum, another geothermal spring. You can go for a hike, golf, whale watching or horse riding and many other things.

BEAUTIFUL NORTH

AKUREYRI is another town and the capital of north Iceland. There is a lot of action and also much more people around. Outside of Akureyri where I spent the night I saw the first Aurora and will never forget it.

The ride on the northern part of Iceland was very various. The street conditions changed from paved road to a bumpy road were dust colored my white car brown. There was a lot of snow, a stone in the water with a hole and many other things to see.

KIRKJUFELLSFOSS

The scene changed again when I was in the east part. Everything was covered in surreal looking green moss. There was this mountain KIRKJUFELLSFOSS, where I went hiking for a while. I relaxed at Skarðsvík, a beach in Iceland, which is a rather exceptional sight in Iceland.

NATIONALPARK

One night I drove my car on the foot of the GLYMUR and jumped on the front of my car. I laid there for hours watching the billions of stars. In the morning I hiked to the Glymur waterfalls.

I explored the Þingvellir Natinal Park, joined the tourists at the Big GEYSIR and was again overwhelmed at the GULLFOSS waterfall.

HIKE REYKJAVIK HOME MOUNTAIN

I took another sunrise hike up to the top of MOUNT ESJA. It is one of the best known and most visited hiking trails in Iceland, but I came across some mountain runners and a couple on my way down.

AMAZING NATURE IN GRINDAVIK

After my hike it was time for a bath, so I drove to REYKJAVIK and looked for a public bath where I spend some time. Then I headed to GRINDAVIK, found some geothermal ghosty area and a beautiful shore.